Facts About Declawing
What is declawing?
Declawing is the amputation of each front toe bone at the first joint (hind foot declaw surgery is not commonly performed). This is equivalent to a person losing the entire tip of every finger at the first knuckle. The cat loses 1/3 of its paws. The surgery is so excruciatingly painful that it is used to test the effectiveness of pain medications. Initial recovery takes a few weeks, but even after the surgical wounds have healed, there are often other long-term physical and psychological effects.
Declawing is a cruel and unnecessary painful procedure that can cause long-term physical and psychological effects.
Pain. While the immediate post-surgical pain that the cats suffer is obviously severe, it is impossible to know how much chronic pain and suffering declawing causes. Cats typically conceal pain or illness until it becomes unbearable. With moderate chronic pain, it may be that they simply learn to live with it. However, a new syndrome of “Chronic Pain of Onychectomy” has been documented to affect many cats, sometimes months or years after declawing.
Post-surgical complications. Lameness, abscesses, and regrowth of the claw can occur after surgery. In one report that studied cats for only five months after surgery, more than 30% of cats developed complications from both declaw and tenectomy surgeries (digital tenectomy or tendonectomy is a procedure, sometimes promoted as an “alternative” to declaw, where the tendons that extend the toes are cut. The claws still require frequent trimming. The procedure is not recommended.). Nail regrowth has been known to occur up to 15 years after surgery; and the process of regrowth is painful as it occurs.
Joint Stiffness. In declawed (and tenectomized) cats, the tendons that control the toe joints retract after the surgery, and over time these joints become essentially “frozen.” The toes can no longer be extended, but remain fully contracted for the lifetime of the cat. The fact that most cats continue to “scratch” after they are declawed is often said to “prove” that the cat does not “miss” its claws. However, this is as easily explained as the cat’s desperate desire to stretch those stiff, contracted paw, leg, shoulder and spinal joints.
Arthritis. Researchers have shown that, in the immediate post-operative period, newly declawed cats shift their body weight backward onto the large central pad of the front feet and off the toes. This effect was significant even when strong pain medication was given, and remained apparent for the duration of the study (up to 40 hours after surgery). If this altered gait persists over time, it would cause stress on the leg joints and spine, and could lead to damage and arthritic changes in multiple joints.
Litter box problems. Many experts say that declawed cats have more litter box avoidance problems than clawed cats. If cat owners knew they could end up trading scratched furniture for urine-soaked carpeting, they might have second thoughts about declawing. Studies suggest that up to 15% of cats will develop litter box avoidance behaviors after declawing.
Biting. Deprived of claws, a cat may turn to its only other line of defense—its teeth. Some experts believe that naturally aggressive cats that are declawed are the most likely to become biters. Studies have shown that up to 18% of declawed cats either start biting or bite harder and more often after declaw surgery.
Death. There is always a small but real risk of death from any general anesthesia, as well as from hemorrhage or other surgical complications. Declawing that results in biting or litterbox avoidance may result in the cat being dumped at a shelter. Such behaviors make them unadoptable, and they will be destroyed. Many cats are abandoned or exiled to a life outdoors because of these unwanted behaviors, even though declawed cats should not be allowed outside—their ability to defend themselves, and to escape danger by climbing, is seriously impaired. It’s a horrible truth that today, a friendly, declawed cat makes ideal bait for training fighting dogs to kill.
How can I stop unwanted scratching behavior without declawing?
Despite their reputation for independence, cats can readily be trained to use a scratching post instead of the sofa, curtains, or rugs. Using surgery to prevent or correct a behavioral problem is expedient, but it is not the wisest, kindest, or best solution for your cat. Cats can be trained not to scratch furniture or other objects. Amazingly, many people do not even know that they should provide a scratching post for their cats. Because scratching is a deeply ingrained instinct in cats, if there is no appropriate spot, they will be forced to substitute furniture or other objects.
A vertical scratching post should be at least 28-36″ high to allow the cat to stretch to his full height. Many cats prefer natural soft wood, such as an aspen log, cedar or redwood plank, or 4×4 posts wound with sisal rope. Some cats prefer a horizontal surface; inexpensive cardboard scratchers are popular with these cats. Rubbing the surface with catnip, or using a catnip spray, may enhance the attractiveness of the post. Other scratching solutions include:
- Training (yes, cats CAN be trained!)
- Regular claw-trimming
- Rotary sanders (Peticure, Dremel)
- Nail caps (SoftPaws, Soft Claws)
- Emery scratching boards (Emerycat)
- Double-sided sticky tape (Sticky Paws)
- Non-stick furniture protectors (Corner Savers, Fresh Kitty Furniture Protectors)
- Pet repellent sprays
- Access restriction (upside-down vinyl rug runner)
- Remote aversive devices (ScatMat, Ssscat)
- Pheromones (Feliway)
- Furniture covers (blankets, towels—anything loose will not be appealing to your cat!)
Is LASER declawing okay?
Laser declawing causes less bleeding and swelling than other techniques. This reduces pain and complications in the first few days after surgery, but the long-term implications of the procedure remain the same.
If you are set on declawing shelters will sometimes have cats and kittens that are already declawed.
WHY REGULAR VETERINARY VISITS ARE IMPORTANT
EVEN FOR INDOOR ONLY CATS?
How Often Should Cats Go to the Vet
Do indoor cats need to go to the vet? The answer is, yes, all cats need to see a vet. And the answer to when and how often, really depends on their age and where they live. But let me repeat that-ALL cats need to see a vet. Sadly, only a small fraction of cats receive annual veterinary care, and most only see a vet when they are very ill.
When Does My Cat Need to Go to the Vet?
Kittens: Kittens should start seeing a vet around six to eight weeks of age to start their vaccination series. Vaccines will occur every three to four weeks until the kitten is around 18 to 20 weeks. These vaccine visits are important not only for building immunity, but also making sure the kitten is growing properly and identifying any congenital issues early and addressing those issues while the kitten is still young. Once finished with the initial vaccine series, if the kitten is not a potential breeding cat, the kitten will most likely need a vet visit where they will be spayed or neutered. This kitten will likely not see a veterinarian again until about a year in order to give them their yearly vaccinations.
Adult Cats: Most cats are considered adults from two to six years of age. Adult cats should be examined by a veterinarian at least once every year, whether or not they are receiving vaccines. The reason for this is that cats tend to hide the fact that they are sick and so an owner might not realize their feline friend is having any issues until those issues are very serious. The annual exam can identify potential problems and make changes early enough to prevent severe illness.
Mature Cats: A cat is considered mature between seven and 10 years of age. Cats of mature age need to see the vet at least once a year, but might start showing more aging changes and may require more frequent visits to the vet in order to address those changes early before they become very serious illnesses. It’s at this stage that having at least yearly bloodwork performed to establish a baseline and discover any early disease (such as kidney disease, arthritis, etc.) will allow for early intervention to slow progression.
Senior and Geriatric Cats: Senior cats are considered between 11 to 15 years of age, and geriatric cats are older than 15 years. These are life stages that require more than yearly visits to the vet for the simple fact that most illnesses occur during these life stages, but early detection and monitoring can sometimes slow progression or minimize symptoms. These experienced felines should see a vet at least twice a year, and maybe more often depending on what issues or changes are occurring.
Indoor-Only vs Indoor/Outdoor: Most cat owners that keep their cats indoors all the time feel that they don’t need to have their cat see the vet for the simple fact that they “aren’t exposed to anything bad” and their indoor cat is “really healthy and doesn’t act sick” . While it’s great that their cat might be healthy, it’s still important that they be examined by a veterinarian at least once a year, and possibly more depending on the age of the cat. As was stated before, cats like to hide illness and an owner might not recognize potential health issues in their indoor cat. Indoor/outdoor or outdoor exclusive cats have even more risk as they have more exposure to potential dangers of illness and injury. They also have more contact with parasites, both internal and external, that may require more frequent vet visits in order for them to remain healthy.
If you have cat health questions, call a Revival Pet Care Pro at 800.786.4751.
-Dr. Hanson
Amy Hanson, DVM, contributing veterinarian at Revival Animal Health
About Dr. Hanson: Dr. Amy Hanson is an associate veterinarian at the Cat Clinic of Lawrence in Lawrence, Kansas. She is a 2010 graduate of Kansas State University College of Veterinary Medicine. Her special interests include felines, acupuncture and dentistry. Her hobbies include showing cats and she is a judge for the American Cat Fanciers Association (ACFA).
Revival Animal: How often should cats go to the vet
American Animal Hospital Association Recommends regular vet visits even for “indoor only” cats
Routine veterinary visits help your pet live a long, healthy, and happy life. Annual or biannual exams nip emerging health problems in the bud and are key to extending your pet’s time by your side. Early detection and intervention allows your veterinary team to treat a disease in the beginning stages, and then manage the condition with medication or simple lifestyle changes. Your veterinarian also can give you pointers that will help your pet live her healthiest life and stave off potential medical conditions.
What is your veterinarian looking for during an exam?
The physical exam your veterinarian performs may seem like nothing more than a thorough petting, but it reveals a wealth of information.
Routine testing of younger pets provides a baseline of their normal values and may identify hidden illnesses. Older pets benefit from routine screening for common species- or breed-specific diseases, the same way people undergo normal screening tests based on hereditary diseases. Your veterinarian may recommend these additional tests geared toward your pet
Since pets—especially cats—are excellent at hiding signs of illness, a thorough physical exam with routine screening tests is crucial to detect early stage illnesses. Early detection and treatment can extend your pet’s life, giving you many more years of quality time together, so schedule a wellness visit to ensure your furry friend is in top physical condition.
https://www.aaha.org/your-pet/pet-owner-education/ask-aaha/why-are-regular-veterinary-visits-important/
Top Reasons to Keep Cats Indoors
To Monitor Your Cat’s Urinary Tract/Bowel Health: Observing a cat’s painful attempts to poop or urinate, or finding blood and/or mucus in the feces in the fact is a red flag for constipation, bowel blockage, megacolon, and urinary stones and blockages
An Indoor Cat Is Relatively Safe from Many Diseases: Cats allowed free access to the outdoors invariably come into contact with other cats. Even casual contact can transmit parasites and more serious diseases: FeLV (Feline Leukemia), FIP (Feline Infectious Peritonitis), Panleukopenia (Feline Distemper), FIV (Feline Immunodeficiency Virus), Zoonotic Diseases. Many of these diseases are quite common in outdoor cat populations and oftentimes they can be fatal.
Mice your cat may eat or bring home can also cause a host of other dangerous diseases.
Rarely mentioned, but equally serious is the possibility of skin cancer from over-exposure to the sun. White and other light-colored cats can develop squamous cell carcinoma, a serious, painful disease.
Indoor Cats Do Not Get Hit by Cars: According to one source, more cats are killed by cars annually than are euthanized in U.S. animal shelters. Even the most careful driver cannot avoid hitting a cat that runs across the street in front of a car. Even so-called “safe” country areas are no guarantee for cats. Country cats are not as car-savvy as their city brethren, and all it takes is one misjudgment of distance or speed.
Indoor Cats Are Safe From Wildlife Dangers and Dog Packs: Outdoor cats are below wildlife predators in the food chain, and they are sitting ducks for owls, raptors, coyotes, and native big cats. Dogs running in packs will consider a cat fair game; even one large dog can easily overpower and kill a cat.
Remember that some dogs are also bred to attack; they are not really to blame when their instinct takes over. Even with a full set of fangs and claws, the cat rarely has a chance when caught outside, and declawed cats are even more at risk.
Indoor Cats Don’t Create Neighbor Problems: Even “well-bred” cats will venture into neighbors’ yards when allowed to roam free, and the resultant neighborhood discord has in some cases caused cat owners to move. People who don’t like cats will not tolerate cats using their gardens as litter boxes, and will sometimes resort to extreme measures to keep the cats out. At the very least, a neighbor may call the local animal control to pick up the “stray” cat.
Indoor Cats Rarely Get Abscesses From Fighting: Cats are very territorial and will defend their territory to the death if challenged by another cat. At the very least, these territorial battles often result in abscessed wounds, which can be deadly if not treated in time. There’s also the chance, of course, of cats contracting FIV from deep bite wounds.
Indoor Cats Are Safe From Human Abuse: Freely-roaming cats are easy targets for gangs of youths with time on their hands, for cat-haters, who seek cats out for target practice, and for neighbors who would think nothing of killing a cat for trespassing on their property.
Although animal protection laws are beefing up, the prosecution will never bring a loved cat back to life. It’s a well-known fact that serial killers often practice first with animals.
Indoor Cats Can Get Plenty of Exercise: Cats do get exercise, but they can get it safely with interactive toys, climbing towers, scratching posts, and other indoor toys; all much safer than running from dogs or fighting with other cats. Remember also that there are safe compromises for the outdoor
Indoor Cats Are not a Danger to Wildlife: Let’s face it; cats are predators, and left to their own devices outdoors, will eventually chase and kill birds, rabbits, and other small wildlife. Most of us would rather not see our cats cast in a killer role, and keeping them indoors will help protect wildlife to some degree.
Indoor Cats Don’t Get Lost: As outdoor cats widen their outdoor territories, they may become lost long enough to be “rescued” by other cat lovers, legitimate rescue groups, or picked up by animal control as strays. Statistics show that of “owned” cats turned in to shelters, only 3% are eventually relocated with their owners.
Collars can break, and even microchips do not guarantee a cat will not be adopted and kept as an indoor cat by someone else. Why take the chance?
Indoor Cats Are Not Stolen: Bunchers are people who sell cats to laboratories for animal experimentation or research. Their prime source of cats is on the street. Even a cat sitting on his front lawn is fair game for a buncher. Other people pick up cats for use as “bait” for training fighting dogs. Both categories of cat-knappers are the lowest of the low, but they are out there.
So beware. Remember that an indoor cat is always safer.
Indoor Cats Don’t Freeze in Winter: Weather conditions can change very rapidly, and mild weather can turn stormy and cold, sometimes with little notice. Cats can die quickly from hypothermia when left outside, particularly at night.
It is illegal to allow your cat outside without a leash in Lake County Illinois.
To read the Lake County Leash Law click this link Lake County Illinois Leash Law
Cats need high quality wet food
The natural diet of cats is meat. Cats are meat eaters, designed to thrive on a wide variety of small prey animals, eaten fresh and whole. Their natural diet is high in water and protein, with a moderate amount of fat, and a very low percentage of carbohydrate.
Cats need to get water from their food. Cats are descended from feline desert dwellers. They couldn’t stroll over to the watering hole for a drink, and cat tongues are not very well designed for drinking water. Cats are adapted to obtain most of their water from their prey, which contains more than 75 percent water. Cats who eat dry food consume only half the water they need, compared to those that eat wet food, and live in a state of chronic dehydration.
The common health problems of cats are related to diet.
There is increasing evidence, published in peer-reviewed veterinary journals, that many of the health problems seen in cats are the result of diets inappropriate for a felines. Dry, foods fed to a meat eater, over time; result in both chronic and life-threatening diseases, like these:
Obesity: Since cats are designed for a high-protein, moderate-fat, low-carbohydrate diet, it is not surprising that obesity is often seen in cats. Diet cat foods have even more carbohydrate than regular ones, and less fat, so they depart even further from the natural diet of cats, making it harder for them to lose weight.
Diabetes: The high level of carbohydrate in dry cat food contributes directly to the development of diabetes in cats. Blood sugar levels rise when cats eat dry food. When this is an ongoing event, insulin-producing cells “down regulate,” which leads to diabetes.
Kidney disease: Kidney disease is the most common cause of death for cats. The kidneys require an abundant supply of water to do their job. Without water to process the byproducts of the digestion process, the kidneys are overloaded, become damaged over time and unable to do their job.
Bladder Problems: Cystitis, bladder irritation and bladder/kidney stone formation are also strongly connected to dehydration. If the body is well hydrated, these problems are minimized.
Inflammatory Bowel Syndrome and Disease: These problems are often characterized by vomiting and diarrhea and are very common in cats. Cats who eat a species-appropriate diet rarely suffer from these issues.
Dental disease: Dry food has a high sugar (carbohydrate) content, which has been shown to cause dental decay. For cats to derive any supposed abrasive benefit from dry foods to be seen, they would have to actually chew their dry food. Since dry food shatters in their mouths and they then swallow the pieces, there’s no abrasive action from chewing something hard. Cats that eat dry food often have very severe dental problems. Many factors contribute to dental health, but it is clear that a high-carbohydrate diet is not beneficial!
Why we don’t recommend leaving dry food out all the time
(also known as free feeding)
One of the first signs a cat will show when it is sick is they will stop eating. If food is left out all the time it is hard to know when they stop eating. This is especially true in homes with multiple cats or for people who use gravity feeders. Cats are very good at hiding illnesses so catching symptoms early can make the difference between life and death.
Cats are descendants of desert animals, in the wild cats get 70% of their water intake from the food they eat. Sometimes when cats are thirsty they will eat dry food or kibble thinking they will get the moisture they need from their food but in actuality it dehydrates them further. If dry food is not left out all the time they are more likely to drink water when they are thirsty rather than eat dry food. Continuous dehydration in cats can lead to kidney disease, urinary tract infections (UTI’s) urinary crystals and stones and more.
Keeping large amounts of food in a bowl can also harbor bacteria. When a cat eats dry food they get saliva in their bowl, when that saliva sits on the dry food it can grow large amounts of bacteria causing the cat or kitten to become sick. Also leaving large amounts of food out can cause the food to go stale.
Wild cats and house cats do not graze on food like rabbits or other farm animals. Cats were made to use large amounts of energy to hunt and kill the prey they eat. They are biologically made to eat two to three meals a day, that’s it. Cats like routine, feeding your cat at the same time everyday will help your cat or kitten feel secure and can increase the human animal bond. Animal behaviorists have linked having food out all the time to having behavioral problems, like aggression possibly because there is no routine or consistency or simply because they are NOT biologically designed to graze.
Leaving food out all the time also leads to over eating and obesity According to pet obesity prevention, in 2018 an estimated 60% of cats in the United States were overweight or obese. Just like under feeding your cat or kitten is mistreatment, over feeding your cat or kitten is a form of mistreatment as well. It is our responsibility as pet owners to make sure our pets are healthy and we can start by portioning out our pets food.
There are automatic feeders that can dispense the proper portion to your cat or kitten multiple times a day if that is easier. Leaving food out all the time for them to eat whenever is pure laziness and neglect.
Why a Healthy Weight is Important for your Cat
As little as two pounds above your cat’s ideal weight can put it at risk for developing some serious medical conditions. Unfortunately, when a cat is overweight or has obesity it no longer it is at great risk for developing a secondary condition. Some of the common feline weight-related disorders include:
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Type 2 diabetes – a cat with obesity is at least three times more likely to develop than serious disease as a cat of healthy weight
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Kidney disease
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Chronic inflammation
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Heart disease
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Osteoarthritis
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High blood pressure
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Many forms of cancer – especially intra-abdominal cancers
Further, overweight felines and cats with obesity are expected to live shorter lives than their normal weight counterparts. Cats with obesity tend to physically interact less with their families and are often less energetic and playful. We are just beginning to understand how serious and threatening extra adipose tissue can be for both humans and pets. To read more about obesity in pets click here https://petobesityprevention.org/
It is our jobs as pet owners to monitor and maintain a healthy weight for our pets. Cats and kittens that are overweight or obese tend to not live as long and do not have as high quality of life than healthy weight cats.
Just like under feeding a cat or kitten is a form of mistreatment so is overfeeding. It is our jobs as pet parents to help our cats to maintain a healthy weight so that they can live a long and healthy life.
What should I feed my cat or kitten?
Click the link below to see non bias reviews of the most popular cat and kitten foods.
https://allaboutcats.com/cat-food-reviews
Or click this link to watch a video by Dr. Karen Becker about the best and worst foods to feed your pets Dr. Becker’s Best and Worst Pet Foods
What are some of the worst foods to feed your cat?
Click the brand to learn why
Buttons and Bows
Please look at the ingredients of your cat food, if the first or second ingredient is a filler such as corn or corn gluten meal it is not a good quality food and should not be fed to cats.
The food listed above are very high in carbohydrates, fillers and preservatives and can lead to serious health issues if fed long term. The food may be cheap but a lot of owners end up spending more in medicals bills later in life than if they were to feed a slightly more expensive, higher quality food.
Worst cat food brands (hint: they’re all the same)
Why feed high quality cat food?
Ever wonder how some cat food companies are able to sell their food so cheap? When farmers have dying, dead, sick or other livestock not suitable for human consumption they sell them to pet food companies who then turn it into cheap pet food. Beaks of chickens, hooves, feathers, blood and other parts of the animals that are not safe for humans are ground down and turned into meat by-product. Low quality pet foods will use the cheapest parts of these and put them in pet foods. Feeding your cat food of this quality can have major health consequences in the future.
Grocery and pet stores have seemingly endless options of cat food. Have you ever stopped, though, to think about what a cat actually needs to eat? You probably know that cats need to eat meat. But, how does that translate into the diet of a typical domestic house cat?
Obligate Carnivores
Cats are obligate carnivores, defined as animals that must have animal-based protein (i.e., meat) as the main part of their diet. Wild cats will hunt small prey, such as rodents, and large prey, like deer.
Domestic cats are remarkably similar to their wild counterparts. So, even though your cat loves lounging in a sunlit window for hours, they still have a strong hunting instinct and need meat as a major part of their diet.
Cats have little to no need for carbohydrates. That is why a low carbohydrate, grain free diet is recommended. Interestingly, a cat’s digestive tract is shorter than that of a dog’s because their body doesn’t need to digest carbohydrates.
https://allaboutcats.com/cats-are-obligate-carnivores
Cats are built to eat small meals throughout the day. If food is accessible to them all the time, it can disrupt their instinctual behaviors. Not to mention, overeating and indulgence isn’t good for them, and can lead to weight issues and diabetes. Cats are not grazers in the wild. They are not built to have food out all the time. Cats are built to hunt then eat. Free feeding (leaving dry food out all the time) can not only cause weight gain and health issues it can also lead to behavioral issues such as aggression.
*Just like in humans when cats eat carbohydrates the body converts them into sugars. Too many carbohydrates in cat food can cause diabetes, liver, and kidney issues especially as cats age. High quality wet food, frozen or freeze dried raw has the least amount of carbohydrates followed by high quality dry foods.
Always check ingredients in your cat’s food. The first ingredient should always be real meat, not by product meal or fillers such as peas, corn wheat or soy. Cheap cat foods use fillers such as corn, wheat gluten meal, and soy. These are the first ingredients of Purina Cat Chow, Chicken by-product meal, ground yellow corn, corn gluten meal, whole grain wheat, rice, soy flour, beef fat preserved with mixed-tocopherols, chicken. Chicken is the 9th ingredient.
https://www.purina.com/cat-chow/dry-cat-food/complete#overview
Food Dyes
Blue 2, Red 40, and Yellow 5 and 6 have been documented to contribute to hypersensitivity (allergic-type) reactions, behavior problems, and cancer in humans and pets. More recently, caramel color has come under fire as it contains
4-methylimidazole (4-MIE), a known animal carcinogen. When it comes down to it, artificially coloring food only appeals to humans and not pets.
https://www.petsafe.net/learn/pet-food-the-good-the-bad-and-the-healthy
Purina cat chow has Red 40, Yellow 5, Blue 2 in its ingredients.
https://www.purina.com/cat-chow/dry-cat-food/complete#overview
Feeding the right type of food for the right life stage is also important. If you are adopting a kitten make sure the food you buy is for kittens, all life stages or for growth and maintenance. Food that is labeled for maintenance is for adult cats only. All cat food will have AAFCO labels stating this. Kittens need kitten food, feeding a kitten an adult diet will not give them the nutrients they need to develop properly.
Being aware of what your cat is eating is one of the best things you can do to help them live a long, happy, healthy life and will save you money in the long run.
Litter boxes and litter
There is proper litter box etiquette and a correct way to set-up your cat’s litter box. This affects the mannerism in which your cat relates to this territory. If your cat isn’t going in the litter box, It’s time to take a closer look at their current litter box situation. Here are some basic rules.
One litter box plus one extra box for each cat. Your cat should have more than one place to do his/her business. Make sure the litter boxes are placed in different areas of your home.
Place litter boxes in separate, socially important areas. Litter boxes should not be in a dark corner in the basement, garage, or hidden. If your cat is marking outside the litter box, it’s important to put the boxes places where they’re marking. Litter boxes should be placed in areas where your cat spends the majority of their time (If your cat loves to hang-out in the living room, then that’s where one of the litter boxes should be). Keeping litter boxes out in the open might not be your ideal scenario, but it’s ideal for your cat, and it can solve litter box issues. If you have multiple cats, do not place the boxes side-by-side, right next to each other.
Your litter box should have multiple exits. Cats need an escape route, they don’t like to feel cornered-in. If you have multiple animals in your home, and they’re approached while in the litter box, they don’t have a way out. One bad litter box experience can cause a cat to abandon it. If your only litter box is a deep box with one entrance, at least add a shallower one with multiple exits and/or an open pan (no lid) to your cat’s repertoire, and eventually try to replace them.
Type of litter. Vets often say that unscented clumping litter is the best. Scented litter is designed for humans, not cats. Felines have a strong sense of smell with over 67 million scent receptors, a lot of scented cat litter can be overpowering to cats and kittens which can deter them from using a litter box with strong scented litter.
Infants, Toddlers and Kittens
Important Information for parents
A PET IS NOT A TEMPORARY PLAYMATE FOR CHILDREN BUT A LIFELONG FAMILY MEMBER
Getting a pet just to teach a child responsibility is not a good idea. Pet experts recommend that young kittens are not appropriate for children under age five and suggest a child should be at least six years old before having a pet.
Young kittens are not always the best choice for homes with an infant or toddler as young children usually don’t have the patience or maturity to handle kittens responsibly.
The best way to teach your children how to be responsible pet caregivers is to be one yourself. This should start before you even get a pet by selecting the right animal for your family at the right time. Please take the time to consider whether a young kitten is the best choice for you and your family.
TIME AND ENERGY
Caring for a kitten is a lot like caring for a baby. They require significantly more time to supervise and care for than an older cat. The first six months are vital to the development of a kitten. Many households are not able to provide what is needed during this time of learning and growing. Kittens that aren’t properly taught and cared for may not grow up to be well-adjusted adults. If you have a young child that already requires a lot of care and time, you should ask yourself if you will have enough time to properly care for a kitten as well.
KITTENS ARE FRAGILE
A kitten in not a toy!! Young kittens are fragile creatures that may be too delicate for an exuberant toddler. Small children are often too rough on kittens because they have not yet learned how to treat creatures smaller than themselves.
A young child may inadvertently cause serious harm to a kitten. A kitten’s tiny body can be easily broken or crushed. A common injury in kittens is broken bones from rough play and death from being squeezed too hard.
There is no way to predict how a kitten will react to a child that wants to constantly pick him up, hug him, pull on his tail, ears, feet, or whiskers. If frightened, held too tightly or forcibly restrained, a kitten may view this as a threatening gesture and react with scratching or biting the child.
It’s important to help your child see the world through your pet’s eyes. How would your child feel if someone poked at his eyes or pulled his ears. Even the most docile pet has limits, and all animals must be treated with caution and respect. To protect both your child and your pet, it’s critical that an adult supervise all pet-child interactions to insure the experience is a positive one — for both kids and kitten.
ROUGH PLAY
Kittens have extremely sharp teeth and claws. Biting and other rough play is natural play for a kitten. A rambunctious, teething kitten may not be suitable for an infant or toddler. If a child plays too rough with a kitten they could get scratched or bitten. Kittens also tend to climb on small children and accidentally scratch. Punishing your kitten for inappropriate behavior will not help. If he learns that being around children results in “bad things” happening to him, he may become defensive in their presence.
WHAT IS A “GREAT KIDS CAT”?
A cat about one year old with an established personality is the perfect pet for families with young children. A one year old cat is barely out of kittenhood with plenty of spunk and energy. A one year old cat is better able to cope with children and their fast, unexpected movements and loud noises. It will be more patient with young kids, and best of all, knows when to walk away from interactions that are too much for either of them.